Umgibeli American Scott Fischer, abanqoba isiqongo Lhotse: Biography

Scott Fisher - umgibeli, kakade 20 ubudala wazibonisa uchwepheshe kweqiniso ekunqotshweni iziqongo entabeni. Kodwa iningi yaziwa ngenxa yale nhlekelele phezu Everest ngo-1996, lapho emini wabulala abantu 8 mikhankaso ezintathu, kuhlanganise Fischer yena.

Qala ngokuhudula izintaba

Ngiseyingane thina dream of mkhakha nobuqhawe kakhulu. Astronaut, kokulwa namalangabi, wababhukudi, umshayeli, induna - ukuthi yizinto ezihlobene ingozi ethile futhi-ke bheka romantic kangaka emehlweni ingane. Scott Fischer at 14 wayazi ukuthi kungaba umgibeli entabeni. Eminyakeni emibili kamuva wathatha izifundo rock ekhuphuka. Wabe kuphothula esikoleni esiphakeme futhi iziqondiso isibe omunye okungcono abaqeqeshi professional izintaba. Phakathi nale minyaka engu wayethethelela imatasa enqoba alpine yeziqongo.

Ngo-1982, nomkakhe Jean, wathuthela Seattle. Lapha izingane uzalwa Fischer, Andy Keti Rouz.

ekunqotshweni Lhotse

Scott Fischer, eliphakeme umgibeli, waba ngowokuqala American engamamitha umgibeli, unqoba isiqongo Lhotse, ukuphakama lesine ngobukhulu.

"Phezulu Wik" (njengoba eightthousanders elihunyushwe) itholakala zaseHimalaya, emngceleni yaseChina Nepal. It ihlukaniswe yaba amaphuzu amathathu. Namuhla bababeka imizila eziningana, kodwa ukunqoba Lhotse Liyindawo eziyinkimbinkimbi. Dlula odongeni South ubhekwa cishe kungenakwenzeka. Kwenze kungenzeka ayale kuphela abaqwali Soviet ngo-1990. abantu abangu-ukusebenza ngokuvumelana ukuze ekhuphukela phezulu ayengakwenza mabili kuphela.

"Intaba Madness"

Nomfutho futhi engumthengisi, Scott Fischer ngo-1984 wavula inkampani yakhe ngenxa izinkambo eziphakeme. Ekuqaleni umsebenzi sithakazelo esitheni ukuba bezintaba - central ekuphileni kwakhe abangu ukugibela. Inkampani lwamsiza ukuba enze yini ayithandayo. Kwaphela isikhathi eside, "Intaba Madness" kwaba inkampani travel cishe engaziwa. Konke ukushintshwa ngo-90s, lapho kunqotshwa Everest yiphupho ezithandwayo zezingoma izivakashi abavamile. Abanolwazi abaqwali alpine baba iziqondiso ohambisana uzimisele ekhuphukela phezulu ngoba imali. Inqubo inzuzo Everest. Kukhona izinkampani, okwesikhathi round isamba ayesithembisile ukuhlela Umqansa kuya phezulu. Bathatha phezu ilungu ukulethwa bomkhankaso ekamu * base, ukulungiselela ababambiqhaza ukuze emqansweni nokusekelwa endleleni. Ukuze ithuba lokuba omunye abanqobi ka Everest abafisa aliveza izizumbulu - kusuka 50 kuya kwezingu-65 zamaRandi. Ngesikhathi esifanayo abahleli mikhankaso akazange siqiniseke ukuthi sizonqoba - entabeni ayikwazanga sokunikela.

uhambo Scott Fischer ukuze Mount Everest. Izizathu inhlangano yayo

Ukuphumelela mikhankaso commercial yezinye abaqwali, kuhlanganise Rob Hall, ophoqelelwe Fisher ukucabanga mayelana umzila zaseHimalaya. Njengoba umphathi ayetshelwe uKaren Dickinson, isinqumo sayo isuke ibangelwa isikhathi. amakhasimende amaningi bafuna eqophelweni eliphakeme zomhlaba. Scott Fischer, Mount Everest ngoba nokungelona umzila nzima kakhulu, ngaleso sikhathi ngokungathi sína kungcono kanjani isikhathi ukushintsha ukuphila. Expedition ukuze zaseHimalaya uzomvumela ukuba bazikhulumele futhi ubonise ukuthi yini okwazi inkampani yakhe. Uma uphumelele, wayekwazi ukuzibala ku amakhasimende amasha, vuma babeka imali eningi ithuba ekhuphukela phezulu eNtabeni i-Everest.

Uma kuqhathaniswa nezinye izinto abaqwali, esimagama aso hhayi owehla evela emakhasini omagazini, wayengaziwa ngalo kanye. Bambalwa abantu bazi ukuthi ubani Scott Fisher. Everest wamnika ithuba lokuba abadumile impumelelo bomkhankaso "Intaba Madness". Esinye isizathu owenza umgibeli ukuya lolu hambo, kwazanywa ukulungisa umfanekiso waso. Wayesebenza kahle idumela njengendlela abanesibindi yobukhohlakali ephakeme. amaklayenti Iningi abacebile isitayela sakhe okuyingozi ngayo. Lolu hambo kwaba Sandy Hill Pittman, intatheli iphephandaba. Umbiko wakhe ummango kwakuyoba isikhangiso esikhulu Scott Fisher kanye nenkampani yakhe.

Imicimbi e 1996 ku Mount Everest

Mayelana nenhlekelele zaseHimalaya, sakhuluma eziningi. Kwezikhathi izenzakalo uhlanganiswe emazwini abasinde mikhankaso ezintathu kanye nofakazi. 1996 saba omunye ebanga usizi kunazo zonke ngoba abanqobi ka Everest - 15 babo engabuyi ekhaya. Abantu abayisishiyagalombili bashonile ngosuku olulodwa: Rob Hall ne-Scott Fischer, abaholi eviyweni, amalungu amathathu amaqembu abo bezintaba ezintathu kusukela Indo-Tibetan Border Izikhungo.

Izinkinga zaqala ngo-emqansweni ekuseni. Sherpas (bendawo-babashayeli) akazange ukuphatha ukusungula zonke komzila, okuyinto behlisa kakhulu phansi yokutakula. Kuvikelwe futhi izivakashi eziningi, lokhu Lolusuku reshivshiesya umzamo esiqongweni. Ngenxa yalokho yesimiso zamandla ekhuphuka eliphuliwe. Labo abazi ukuthi kubaluleke kangakanani ukuba ngibuyele emuva ngingahambi ngesikhathi, emuva ekamu bahlala uyaphila. Abanye nokwanda kuleli zwe.

Rob Hall Skott Fisher kude ngemuva bonke abanye abawugijimayo. Lesi sakamuva kwaba esibi ngokomzimba ngaphambi kokuqala lo mkhankaso, kodwa ezifihlakele leli qiniso kwabanye. ukhathele wakhe waphawula ngesikhathi wenyuka, okuyinto eyayingavamile impela ngoba umgibeli eyingqabavu futhi esebenzayo.

Ngu lesine ntambama baye bafinyelela esiqongweni, nakuba isheduli isivele amahora amabili kwakufanele iqale ukwehla. Ngalesi sikhathi, indwangu ukukhanya ezimboze entabeni yaphenduka isiphepho esikhulu seqhwa. Scott Fisher owehla kanye Sherpa Lopsangom. Ngokusobala, ngalesi sikhathi isimo sakhe sawohloka ngokushesha. Kusolwa ukuthi umgibeli waqala ukuvuvukala kobuchopho namaphaphu, futhi kwakukhona esiteji eqinile yokukhathala. Athonya Sherpa wehlele ekamu futhi uthole usizo.

Anatoly Boukreev, umhlahlandlela "Intaba Madness" ngalolu suku ukulondolozwa izivakashi ezintathu kuphela uziyisa ekamu. Wazama kabili ifike Fischer ukufunda kusuka wabuya Sherpa umgibeli isimo, kodwa zero ukubonakala eqinile imimoya akamvumelanga ukuya ikhanda leqembu.

Morning Sherpas safinyelela Fisher, kodwa isimo sakhe sasibucayi kakade kangangokuthi iye yathatha isinqumo esinzima ukushiya esikhundleni, uthole ukhululekile. Ekamu behlela Makalu Guo, ogama isimo ovunyelwe ukwenza kanjalo. Ngemva nje kancane kwalokho, ngaphambi Fischer ufinyelele Boukreev, kodwa umgibeli engu-40 ubudala, bashone ngesikhathi ukuminyana.

Izimbangela nhlekelele nge Fischer kanye nezinye izinhlangano ukugibela

Izintaba - yezindawo esikhohlisayo emhlabeni. namakhulu ayisishiyagalombili amamitha - ukuphakama lapho umzimba womuntu Awukwazi ukuthola. Ngu inhlekelele edabukisayo kungabangela, isizathu awuwona yini ongelutho kunayo. Ngalolo suku eNtabeni i-Everest abaqwali catastrophically esibi. Ziyakwazi kude ngemuva kusukela isimiso esiqinile ngenxa inani elikhulu izivakashi abaye bavele ngesikhathi esifanayo emzileni. Isikhathi uma kwadingeka ukuba ngibuyele emuva ngingahambi, ke bebungekho. Labo abaye bafinyelela esiqongweni phela ziyabuya abekade snowstorm eqinile futhi ayikwazanga ukuthola amandla wehlele ekamu.

Vula ithuna Everest

Scott Fisher, isidumbu sakhe esatholwa eqandisiwe Anatoly Boukreev Meyi 11, 1996, wasala isayithi sokufa kwakhe. Phansi kusuka ukuphakama izisulu cishe kungenakwenzeka. Ngemva konyaka, futhi ubuyela ku Nepal, Anatoly Boukreev bahloniphe zabo zokugcina kumngane wakhe, ayebabheka njengamalungu okungcono eziphakeme umgibeli Melika. Wanameka umzimba Fisher amatshe futhi wanamathela yakhe esikhashana ethuneni ice Pick.

Scott Fisher, isidumbu kanye izidumbu zabantu eziningana abanqobi izidumbu Everest wangcwatshwa ukufa indawo, adedelwe ezinyaweni ngo-2010. Khona-ke kwanqunywa ngangokunokwenzeka ukuze usule emaceleni ale ntaba kusukela zanqwabelana eminyakeni udoti azame ukudonsa kwesidumbu. Umfelokazi Rob Hall belahla umqondo, nomkakhe Fishera Dzhinni Kwethenjwa ukuthi isidumbu somyeni wakhe uzobe sebefile ngesikhathi kwentaba wayebulele kuye. Kodwa Sherpas bakwazi ukuthola futhi ukukhulula izinsalela nezinye abaqwali ezimbili. Scott Fisher no Rob Hall ukuhlala ku Everest.

I ukubonakaliswa inhlekelele Everest ezincwadini kanye cinema

Abahlanganyeli sigameko, intatheli Jon Krakauer, Anatoly Boukreev umgibeli Beck Weathers futhi Gammelgaard Lin wabhala incwadi lapho echaza umbono waKhe.

Cinema akakwazanga ukuhlala kude a izindikimba ezinjengo- ethembisa efana inhlekelele Mount Everest ngo-1996. Ngo-1997, uJohn Krakaeura inoveli senziwa ku-movie. Yena wakha sisekelo ifilimu "Ukufa ku Everest."

Ngo-2015, izikrini aphume isithombe "Everest". Shona bomkhankaso "Intaba Madness" eyadlalwa Dzheyk Dzhillenhol. Scott Fisher ukubukeka wabheka ngendlela ehlukile kancane (kwaba ezimhlophe), kodwa umlingisi is fully ukwazi ukudlulisela amandla futhi engasenathonya obubonakala umgibeli. Rob Hall kudlalwa Dzheyson Klark. Esithombeni ungabona futhi Kiru Naytli, Robin Rayt noSam Worthington.

Dzheyk Dzhillenhol (Scott Fisher e ifilimu "Everest") kungokwalabo esigabeni Izıhlabane kabani amakhono ukhula phambi izilaleli. Kule minyaka emibili edlule wakwazi ukujabulisa abalandeli babo umdlalo mkhulu "Stringer" imidwebo futhi "Lefty". Usizi lokukhulelwa "Everest" iyathinteka. Le filimu abathole amaphuzu aphezulu tetsamelilwati baxgeki. Uphendule kahle ngakho bezintaba, ethi nje -Kunemaphutsa ekusebentiseni ambalwa isibonisi yokuziphatha kwabantu ezimweni umoya-mpilo indlala.

Ingabe kuyazuzisa ukuphila komuntu kuyiphupho nje?

Isifiso endaweni ephakeme kakhulu zomhlaba kuyaqondakala. Kodwa Scott Fisher no Rob Hall, ephezulu ezingeni ochwepheshe, bebonisa ubuthakathaka futhi bazinikele izifiso yamakhasimende ayo. A entabeni akusho ukuthethelela amaphutha.