Fashion umklami Elsa Schiaparelli. Biography, umsebenzi Elsa Schiaparelli

Namuhla igama lalo wesifazane akuzwakali kaningi kakhulu. Bambalwa abantu abathintekayo in fashion, uyazi ukuthi le-Elsa Schiaparelli. Eminyakeni 20-30 kwekhulu elidlule, igama master adumile of Haute Couture ibashiye izindebe owesifazane oyedwa kwabane eYurophu. iqoqo Ngamunye umklami savusa intshiseko jikelele nenhlonipho.

abasha Elsa

Esigodlweni yokhokho Corsini, ukuthi Awukude inhlokodolobha Italy - Rome, wazalwa inkanyezi esizayo fashion emhlabeni. ngosuku lweshumi Septhemba, 1890 emndenini umqondisi we-Royal Library of Italy kwakukhona intombazane. Abazali wanquma ukubiza u-Elsa wakhe. Kusukela esemncane le ntombazane azungezwe uthando nokunakekela abazali babo.

Lapho u-Elsa Schiaparelli ukhulile, yokuchitha isizungu Intandokazi yilezozintombi kwaba ukubukela ncwadi imifanekiso emtapweni kayise. Zonke izincwadi e umndeni Schiaparelli kudlale indima enkulu. Ubaba sonke isikhathi sakhe wachitha lezincwadi numismatic, ekubeni i ngalendoda okhuthele zemali lasendulo. Ngokusho kwemibiko ezingaqinisekisiwe, wayegunde udumo ukwabelana zemali naye inkosi yase-Italy.

U-Elsa Schiaparelli: Biography futhi yokhokho izimpande

Umama u-Elsa wazalwa ngo saseMelitha, umkhulu wakhe wathunyelwa inxusa UK. Emkhayeni, eziningi ubuntu ezithakazelisayo Owadala elite isikhathi. Umkhulu izinkanyezi esizayo zomhlaba fashion ngokusebenzisa umugqa komama, beshiya izingane ezinhlanu waya eGibhithe ukusungula ukuhweba izixhumanisi kanye nezimboni zendawo.

Ngokushesha, nge oluvelele ithalente oyengela ebulilini izinhliziyo abesifazane, washada indodakazi umthengisi wendawo ocebile futhi ukhushuliwe umeluleki inkosi yaseGibhithe. Adume sezinkanyezi Italian Dzhovanni Virdzhinio Schiaparelli ama-akhawunti malume, umfowabo kayise u-Elsa sika. Inganekwane ethile ithi, okwenza out imvukuzane on esihlathini sakhe nomshana ahlelwe ngendlela iBhere Omkhulu, ecabange ngakho uphawu ezinhle futhi wabikezela intombazane omkhulu esikhathini esizayo. Nokho, u-Elsa Schiaparelli (bheka isithombe. Ngezansi) kungukuthi ngamnyama ubuhle, yeka ukuzisola esaphila.

I lokuqala kwempilo yokuba mdala

Ukushiya cishe indodakazi, intombazane wakhulela zaba namandla kakhulu. Ubaba akazange avumele u-Elsa abasha iyiphi frills. Knights, abaye ukuya kumuntu Italian abasha, kweso aliwa uyise. Zonke usperdie yami kwadingeka bagxile ezifundweni zabo.

Kuphela ngo-1914, u-Elsa wakwazi ukugqashula ekugqilazweni umzali yayo. Ngesikhathi isimemo umngane ubudala Elsa Schiaparelli lokuqala ushiya endlini kayise, wathumela London, lapho wathenjiswa umphathi. Endleleni eya umsebenzi omusha wenza stop enhloko-dolobha isiFulentshi, lapho ayehlangana nabo ingane afunda nayo ekolishi, owacela Italian abasha ukuba ibhola.

Ngenxa yokushoda kwezimali intombazane ngokuxhamazela wazakhela i dress kusihlwa. Ngu luhlaza krepdeshinovomu ingubo, wathenga igalari Lafayette, yena okuphiniwe ucezu kasilika orange, nasekhanda lakhe uyakhile lwamakholi elula. Isikhathi imininingwane nemithungo izingubo wayengenandaba nawo, ngakho ukuthi zonke izingxenye nezingubo ziboshelwe izikhonkwane.

Ewubuciko Italian intombazane ngubo okubangelwa isithakazelo esiqotho okuvela emphakathini wendawo. Ngokushesha ngemva emzuliswaneni olandelayo we-waltz zonke isethi Chic zisakazwe emhlabathini. Washiya umuntu izinyembezi ngaphansi edideka nhla iholide izivakashi.

London impilo umklami esizayo

Ukufinyelela inhlokodolobha yase-Great Britain, u-Elsa Schiaparelli wasiphakamisa imisebenzi yakhe umphathi. nobunzima ikakhulukazi ekukhuliseni izingane kahle ntombazane yayingazi kuphakama Ngakho-ke, kwadingeka isikhathi esiningi ukuphila siqu.

Craze eYurophu ngaleso sikhathi kwaba ekutadisheni Theosophy, nokulumba ukunyakaza ulwazi ezingaqondakali kaNkulunkulu. U-Elsa wanquma ukuhambisana fashion eziqoshiwe ka Ukubala uWilliam de Wendt de Kerlora. Ngemva kokunye ukuvakasha ehholo inkulumo phakathi womfundisi kanye intombazane wangena mpikiswano thematic.

Ingxoxo waqhubeka kwaze kwaba sekuseni, okwathi ngemva bekene eyingoduso. Kuphela ngemva kokushada indodakazi uxwayiswe abazali bakhe ngomshado.

Ukuphila komkhaya abesifazane eseRoma

Lo mbhangqwana osemncane wahlela ukuphila kwabo ndawonye efulethini aqashiwe emaphethelweni London. Kusukela ezinsukwini zokuqala zasemshadweni ongazange asebenze. okusimeme umyeni wakhe wayengekho lapho futhi ngakho lo mbhangqwana uthuthela Nice, lapho abazali bakhe ababehlala. Ukuzama ngandlela-thile ngcono isimo sezimali, u-Elsa SIAC wedwa uya Monte Carlo ukuzama inhlanhla yabo ku green baize amakhasino wendawo. Ukubuyela ngingenayo nendibilishi, ngiphelile owesifazane ongumRoma enze isithembiso ayisekho aphishekele icala. Enethemba ukushintsha okuthile ngokuphila kwakhe, umbhangqwana unquma ukuya phesheya.

Life e-New York Sasihlukile kuzo ngendlela evamile European zokuphila. William waphonseka olwandle lokuzijabulisa. Inoveli nabesifazane ocebile American phakathi kwabo kwakukhona Aysedora Dunkan, baphoqeleka ukuba akhohlwe ngomfazi injongo yabo uhambo Melika. Izikweletu ehhotela yokuhlala lakhula kanye ngenyanga ngalunye oludlulayo, kodwa akazange anakekele. Waqhubeka carouse e zokudlela wendawo elite, ethula oweta ithiphu ophanayo. Indoda uvele endlini sazikhohlwa, futhi izindaba Elsa elindela ingane, wahlangana nandaba wayelandelwa.

steel Ngakho omnene

Yvonne - njengoba umama osemusha okuthiwa indodakazi yakhe. Ngibuya esibhedlela, u-Elsa waphoqeleka ukufuna yokukhosela entsha yena usana lwakhe. Ngesikhathi umnikazi we ehhotela, lapho behlala noWilliam, zibancishe kubo indawo izikweletu. Umlingani akanandaba empilweni yengane yabo, siyakusebenza iminyaka eyisithupha kamuva, indoda uzofa ngaphansi amasondo emotweni, ngokuba edakiwe.

Yvonne wenza izinyathelo zokuqala kubhasikidi enamathiselwe yokubalekela umlilo. A amancane owawuholela kwelinye ikamelo elincane ehhotela eshibhile phezulu, ngezinye esivelele isakhiwo yezakhiwo. Ezimweni ezinjalo, umama nendodakazi abasha iminyaka emibili ukuphila. U-Elsa imisebenzi uyinqaba ukondla ingane futhi ukukhokhela izindawo zokuhlala. Lapho eseneminyaka eyisithupha ubudala, unina wathola indodakazi yakhe Gait nemvelo.

Ngemva Ukuvakashela udokotela kwatholakala - ukukhubazeka kwezinsana. Ngenxa yokuphelelwa ithemba, umklami esizayo Elsa Schiaparelli odlula kudokotela eyodwa kuya kwenye ethembeni ukusiza indodakazi yakhe. Ngo umtholampilo, ebonana uGabrielle Picabia, inkosikazi umculi French abstract F. Picabia. U-Elsa SIAC wesifazane wabanika ukuthengisa umdlalo izingubo collectible eParis.

Buyela France

On iseluleko odokotela uyeza wengqephu u-Elsa Schiaparelli ubuyela France lapho sesihlela indodakazi yakhe esikoleni ofunda uhlala kuso izingane iziyaluyalu of the system zemisipha e Lausanne. Joyina izwe fashion Elsa wasiza kunjalo. Emcimbini, wahlangana nowesifazane Lokudabuka Armenia i ijezi nenhle, wathungela ngesandla. Ngu iyala ingubo ngazitholela waphuma engena ekukhanyeni, u-Elsa umxhwele Frenchwomen.

Ngakho, ngokushesha abaHlakazekile Armenia waqala ukukhulula u-Elsa izingubo wathungela ukudayiselwa ozinikezele wendawo. Eshukunyiswa impumelelo, u-Elsa waqala ukucabanga mayelana siqu imiklamo yabo imfashini. Ukuba namakhono okuhle umdwebo esizayo, Rents umklami elisophahleni emgwaqweni the World, 4, lapho uphawu "U-Elsa Schiaparelli" livela nje. iqoqo izingubo kusukela fashion entsha Paris zithandwa kakhulu phakathi kwabesifazane inhlokodolobha sika.

Kwezikhathi izenzakalo zesikhathi esizayo

• 1930. Umqondo yokudala Silhouettes oluxube Antique draperies okhalweni ngokweqile.
• 1935. Njengoba esikhethekile kuvula French umklami fashion house eMoscow.
• 1935. Ukuvula Boutique yabo siqu e-Paris.
• 1936. Esikhathini ezweni of fashion usuthandwa umbala fuchsia pink, okuyinto komculo umbono ka Schiaparelli.
• 1938. In Paris, iqoqo bahlanganiswe isihloko isekisi, lapho zonke izinto zokuhlobisa abangu womfekethisi glass ubuhlalu.

Ngawo lowo nyaka Ngazalwa Ngohlelo emangalisayo - Salvador Dali no-Elsa Schiaparelli. Gqoka ngama-lobster enongiwe nge parsley, wadala furore emhlabeni fashion. Ngemva kombukiso, le nto eseke Bessie Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor.

• 1940. amahlamvu Umklami matasa Paris futhi bethuthele e-United States.
• Ngo-1946. Ekubuyeleni kwakhe e-Europe Schiaparelli uqala umugqa omusha perfume "iNkosi Yelanga." Umklamo ibhodlela senziwa okusekelwe imidwebo ngu umngane ongumakad 'ebona - Salvador Dali.
• 1947. On Olympus emhlabeni fashion kukhona igama elisha - Christian Dior. Ukuze u-Elsa SIAC beze ngezikhathi ezinzima, kancane kancane isithakazelo Amathrendi surrealist fashion is yokulahlekelwa ngokuhlathulula ukusebenza kwawo.
• 1954. U-Elsa Schiaparelli inikeza iqoqo yakhe yakamuva futhi ememezela sokuvalwa izindlu fashion.

Uyehla kusuka endaweni yesikhulumi, cishe engamashumi amabili, u-Elsa anakekela abazukulu bakhe - amadodakazi Yvonne - Marisa futhi Bury. Thola ngokwakho ikhaya e Tunisia, u-Elsa SIAC Reminisce futhi wabhala incwadi, "Ukuphila kwami sekulula ethusayo."

U-Elsa Schiaparelli: ucaphuna ukuphila esedlule

• "Ezikhathini ezinzima imfashini njalo embi kuba."
• "Uma ungayiboni amakhophi abo, okusho ukuthi nimi namanje."
• "The dress akanakho ukuphila ayo, uma kuyintando bakhathale. '
• "Owesifazane kufanele akhethe zangasese zabo bebodwa noma ephelezelwa indoda."
• "Thenga kancane kangcono, futhi kuphela eqolo."
• "Owesifazane kufanele ukukhokha izikweletu zabo uqobo".

U-Elsa Schiaparelli wafa Novemba 13, 1973.