Umlobi nomhloli wamazwe Heinrich Harrer: Biography, umsebenzi, izincwadi ezingcono kakhulu, futhi ezithakazelisayo amaqiniso

ukuphila kwakhe futhi izincwadi zakhe eziningi esikalini ngokombono ubulungu lenhlangano yamaNazi, okwenza isiphetho emandleni isisusa impumelelo yakhe yabasubathi zezemfundo. Heinrich Harrer njalo libhekwe ukuhlala lakhe ngemibono nakwezempi inhlangano undlovukayiphikiswa njengenhlangano okungalindelekile futhi abazi ngokugcwele, nakuba wazama yini ngikubonise. Uma ungenalo unamathisele ukubaluleka kakhulu ukubukwa zezombusazwe Harrer, singaphetha ziyamangala lapho ukuphikelela okuqinile isibindi salo mountaineer ezidumile isihambi.

eminyakeni yokuqala

Wazalwa ngo-1912 e-ezincane edolobheni Austrian Obergossene, emkhayeni yesisebenzi leposi Yozefa Harrera nomkakhe Johanna. Ngo-1927 bathuthela Graz, lapho Heinrich Harrer kuphothula esikoleni esiphakeme futhi langena University of Karl Franz. Kusukela ngo-1933 kuya ku-1938 wafundiswa geography imfundo ngokomzimba ngesikhathi esifanayo imatasa izintaba Ukushushuluza.

Wayengumuntu ikhandidethi ukubamba iqhaza Winter Olympic Games ka-1936, aqulwa eJalimane. Kodwa Austria uvukela ngoba chargeability Abafundisi Ukushushuluza alpine ochwepheshe ukuthi Ukuvimba kubo kusukela emithambekeni-Olympic. Ngo-1937, uHeinrich Harrer won mncintiswano ekwehleni, kufakwe ohlelweni Kwezwe Student Games, kodwa isibe uthando lweqiniso ngomuntu ukulikhuphuka.

North Face of the Eiger

Ngu ekupheleni zaseyunivesithi eziphathelene akhawunti Harrer kwadingeka entabeni eziningana ukugibela esigabeni eliphakeme yinkimbinkimbi. Ngo-1938, kanye nomngani wakhe kanye Countryman Fritz Kasparek, uHeinrich Harrer kuziwa kokunqotshwa edume "Wall of Death" - enyakatho ubuso omkhulu egwadle mbhoshongo ukuphakama 3970 amamitha, okuyinto wazala igama Eiger e Ngaya Okhahlamba LwaseSwitzerland.

Lokhu donga lwahlala unclimbed isikhathi eside, nakuba imizamo eminingi amangalelwe inqwaba yabantu. Imizila elakhiwe phezu Eiger enyakatho ubuso, kuyinkimbinkimbi isakhiwo Geological sezulu phezulu futhi imvelo endaweni. Surface eshelelayo izikhukhula zeqhwa ezintabeni ze eziningi, cishe ngokupheleleyo dibikeza ice futhi ine emthambekeni isilinganiso degrees 75, futhi kwezinye izindawo futhi ukuchema kuzo ezimbi.

Imvamisa eliphezulu rockfalls futhi izikhukhula zeqhwa ezintabeni ze, oguqukayo sezulu wenza emqansweni ebusweni enyakatho Eiger obulalayo. Ngenxa yalokho, iziphathimandla zanikeza ivaliwe emthambekeni ngoba abaqwali futhi entabeni abatakuli wenqaba ukuhlenga abantu abaphuma bebodwa kulo mzila.

Julayi 24, 1938

Usuvele odongeni Austrians Kasparek futhi Harrer e isixha nge abaqwali ezimbili German - Anderle Hekmayerom futhi Ludwig Vorgom ukuthi wathatha imishini eziqinile ngoba ukudlula kwamanzi ice. Umzamo ngokuhlanganyela ukukhuphuka yimpumelelo, nakuba kwaba ukuphazamiseka lapho ukulondolozwa umshwalense kuphela, futhi eba ngendathane, okuyindawo ukulondolozwa imishini okunokwethenjelwa kuphela, ukubekezela nokuphikelela. Heinrich Harrer, ogama amabhuku ngokuvamile ukuchaza mikhankaso zayo ezihlukahlukene, watshela kamuva mayelana lo mcimbi documentary inoveli "White Spider" (1959).

Impumelelo iqembu Austria-laseJalimane abaqwali okwenzeka ngemuva kwezinyanga ezintathu nje nokudliwa Austria iJalimane lobuNazi, inkulumo-ze yamaNazi wenza uphawu ubumsulwa Inqubomgomo nolaka wobushiqela. Harrer kanye abanqobi Eiger athola udumo eziningi kanye nemiklomelo, kanye nezilaleli noHitler nabanye abaholi amaNazi.

Expedition ukuze zaseHimalaya

Ukugibela isetshenziswa ezemidlalo, okuyinto eJalimane lobuNazi, zazibhekisiswa ekhethekile. Ukunqoba vertices entsha wedlula imizila nhlobo inkulumo-ze kaHitler wabona ukuthi lifanekiselani izwe ukubusa sekufikeni Aryan Nation. Nale ganging lwaya kaHitler nezimfundiso ezingaqondakali of Shambhala - lizwe edume kuhlale Supermen, ube nolwazi ezenza esinganqobeki futhi onamandla onke.

Ngokusho yetinsita lokhu sezindela wawusegunjini phakathi iziqongo zaseHimalaya, mhlawumbe ngo-Tibet - ezweni ongaqondakali, okuyinto ephethwe ukuze ufunde angaPhandle, futhi mayelana nokuthi iziphi izinhlelo kwakungekho Imininingwane eqondile kusuka baseYurophu. Ngakho-ke, ukuqaphela mikhankaso eziningana abaqwali German ihlelwe ukuhlola ndawo. Akwaziwa ukuthi injongo kwaba beyofuna wasenganekwaneni Shambhala Himalaya uhambo ngo-1939, ingxenye okuyinto kwahlanganiswa Harrer, kodwa lokho ngakho ngokuvamile kusho abacwaningi, ezazivuswa yokuthi isihambi abadumile, eside ezifihlakele esidlule lakhe lobuNazi.

Ukuhlola indlela ku Nanga Parbat

Uhambo olude, ezaholela ekumiseni okukhulunywa ngaye encwadini edume kakhulu nalezo wabhala Heinrich Harrer - "Iminyaka eyisikhombisa ETIBET", yayihloselwe ukulungiselela ekunqotshweni omunye iziqongo zaseHimalaya - uxhaxha Nanga Parbat, okuyinto esenyakatho-ntshonalanga zaseHimalaya, yize ke British koloni - India.

Ngemva indlela entsha phezulu lifaka lwesithathu kunombolo abalimala ayezama asinqobe, abaqwali German kuya phezulu ekwindla ka-1939 babe e Karachi, elinde umkhumbi ukubuyela Europe litholakele. Lo mkhumbi saboshwa. Futhi ngokushesha ngemva 1 Septhemba - kusukela ngosuku lokuqala kokusebenza kweMpi Yezwe II nangemva entry UK wakhe - Septhemba 3 - babesensimini isitha futhi baboshwa.

Ukuphunyuka yimpumelelo

Umzamo ukubaleka - olulodwa futhi emaqenjini - Austria lisebenza awenzile kusukela ekuqaleni eboshwa. Ngemva ithimba labo kwakwenziwa ekamu ukuyongqwa, elise yasehlanzeni zaseHimalaya, ngoba Harrer sobala yokuphunyuka umzila - ngokusebenzisa ezigodini entabeni ye-Tibet. Movement esifundeni sezintaba izwe, ngisho umsubathi abaqeqeshiwe - akuwona neze umsebenzi olula ukuthi kudinga ukulungiselela sina, yimpumelelo ngakho kwakufanele Harrer akusiyo umzamo wokuqala.

Mode ekamu, lapho wayala AmaNgisi ophucukile ngokusobala lahluke kabi kulawo oda ukuthi amaJalimane wenza isiboshwa sempi ku Eastern Front. Ngakho-ke, Harrer nabangani bakhe kwadingeka ithuba elihle kahle ukulungiselela aphunyuke. Kodwa noma kunjalo, kuze kube semngceleni India naseTibet thina azifinyelelanga zonke - abaningi bakhetha phindela ekamu. Ngo Lhasa - nenhloko-dolobha yaseTibet - kanye Harrer kwaba nje uPetru Aufschnaiter, okuyinto evame ezishiwo okukhuluma, eyabhalwa Heinrich Harrer.

"7 Iminyaka ETIBET"

Izincwadi ezenziwe Austrian isihambi abadumile, iqukethe eziningi ulwazi mayelana izwe, lapho ukufinyelela abezinye izizwe okwakwenqatshelwe ngumthetho. Kube isibikezelo omunye abahlakaniphileyo, owawuthi Tibet elahlekile uzibuse ngemva lapho kuyoba abantu bezinye izizwe. Ngakho-ke, ekuqaleni Harrer nomngane wakhe wazizwa yobutha zonke nabaseTibet - nabelusi elula nezikhulu zasebukhosini.

Kuye kwakushintsha ngezindlela eziningi ngenxa yezinguquko ngokwabo nabalingiswa abasemqoka - neze sizi migudu okusezingeni eliphezulu, ukuhlangana ngendlela engavamile lempilo nabaseTibet, ujwayele inkolo yabo ophika udlame olubhekiswe iyiphi isidalwa esiphilayo, Ushiye akukho mkhondo umphefumulo womuntu, ngisho ekuqaleni bekumnyama tshu yoke indawo.Wahlukanisa zidla imibono amaNazi.

Lweshumi nane uDalai Lama

Tenzin Gyatso - samuntu eziphilayo Buddha, Umholi kwezikamoya of Tibet, umfanyana eziyibonayo ofuna ukufunda okwengeziwe mayelana nezwe, elise izinkulungwane zamakhilomitha ezweni lakubo - omunye iqhawe yencwadi. Heinrich Harrer futhi uDalai Lama, safike abajwayelene ngo-1940, wasekela isingeniso Harrer kwaze kwaba sekufeni kwakhe ngo-2006, ezikhandla elinamandla kwenkolo nokuhloniphana lapha nomunye. Kuyinto kusukela Austria, ngeminyaka engu-26, iDalai Lama uye wafunda okuningi mayelana namasiko European, impumelelo yezesayensi nasezinzuzweni lobuchwepheshe yesimanjemanje.

Lokhu kuye kwaholela emangalelwa Tibetan amaBuddha kusukela iziphathimandla zaseChina, kabuhlungu olufanele umbuzo Tibet ukuzimela, ubudlelwane namaNazi. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, isiphathimandla esikhulu uDalai Lama kwezombangazwe zezwe, ezihlala isikhashana, naphezu yokuzinikela imfundiso yenkolo yasendulo, uyindoda nolimi kusukela impucuko yesimanje, futhi kuvela kule wenhlanganyelo zabantu ezimbili ezincane ngeminyaka (ikakhulukazi ukwahlulela by ifilimu 1994) steel abangane bangempela.

Ngesisekelo lezi zenzakalo futhi wadala ethengwa kakhulu yakhe Heinrich Harrer. "Iminyaka eyisikhombisa ETIBET" futhi badutshulwa-bhuku ku ifilimu yakhe nge-Brad Pitt in the indima abaholayo - usazisile igama lakhe ezidumile emhlabeni wonke. Nakuba ngemva kokubuyela ezweni lakubo ngo-1950, wenza okuningi ekhuphuka kanye uhambo ngokwebalazwe, bazibandakanya emsebenzini owodwa owenziwe ahlukahlukene zenhlalo, uye ishicilelwe izincwadi ezingaphezu kuka-20. Harrer Kuvame ukuthiwa kwaba emakhasini bhá zokuphila kwakhe, ukuthi njengoba Tibet phakade okusenhliziyweni yakhe.